North of Sicily, in the middle of the Tyrrhenian Sea, lie the Aeolian Islands. Of volcanic origin, each has its own unique character: from rugged and charred to green and gently rolling. Vlogger Jessica de Korte boarded a converted wooden fishing boat with a Sicilian family as crew, electric bikes on deck, and a week of adventure ahead.
Text and images: Jessica de Korte
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Stromboli: A first encounter with fire
“Wow, lava!” a fellow passenger exclaims enthusiastically as the molten rock shoots into the air. The mountain roars, as if it’s angry.
Anyone visiting the Aeolian Islands can’t miss Stromboli. For thousands of years, this active volcano has regularly spewed lava and ash into the air. It’s impressive and a little ominous to witness such a natural phenomenon up close: a phenomenon that remains unpredictable. It’s not for nothing that the Greeks named the Aeolian Islands after Aeolus, the keeper of the winds. With the plumes of smoke above Stromboli, it is said, Aeolus indicates the wind direction to sailors.
On board with a Sicilian crew
I’m traveling for a week on the Sundial, a traditional Turkish fishing boat converted into a comfortable hotel ship with six cabins. The crew of three consists of a father, Salvatore Taranto, born on Salina; his son, Angelo, a muscular sailor in a white T-shirt; and his daughter, Vanessa, who prepares Sicilian specialties in the small galley. Meanwhile, tour leader Nicolas shows us the best the islands have to offer.
A homely atmosphere prevails on board: walking in our socks on the wooden floor, ceramic tiles on the doors, and a delicious meal every day: from spaghetti bolognese to fresh fish with caponata, a stewed vegetable dish.
Capo di Milazzo peninsula
The journey begins in Milazzo, a port city in northeastern Sicily. Here, we cycle around Capo di Milazzo, a narrow peninsula where the coastal path winds upwards. The steep climbs are effortless thanks to the e-bike’s powerful motor – allowing me to take in the postcard-perfect, deep-blue Tyrrhenian Sea. The Aeolian Islands lie like giant turtles in the water. Tour leader Nicolas points: “There’s Vulcano, that larger island is Lipari, and those two peaks behind it are Salina.” Later, I take a dip in Piscina di Venere, a stunning natural swimming pool nestled among the rocks.
floating hotel with electric bikes
As soon as the Sundial leaves the harbor, a different rhythm unfolds: slow sailing, rolling water, the sound of the wind. Due to the changeable weather, the route can sometimes deviate slightly, explains Angelo: “The sea used to be calmer. Because of climate change, we have to keep a close eye on the forecasts.” On a boat, you’re at the mercy of the elements. I feel the ship rocking back and forth, as if I’m on a swing. Feeling seasick? The best remedy is to lie outside on the deck and stare at the sky; then the nauseous feeling disappears.
Salina: The green island
Salina is the greenest island in the archipelago, with eucalyptus trees, palms, and acacias clinging to the narrow coastline. As I pedal around the hairpin bends on my e-bike, one spectacular view follows another. A lizard darts away behind a meter-high cactus, sailboats drift in the water.
The land suddenly ends at the fishing village of Pollara. Half of the ancient volcanic crater collapsed into the sea here, creating imposing two-hundred-meter-high cliffs (656 feet). Below lies Balate di Pollara, a natural amphitheater of rocks where fishermen once dug caves to store their boats.
The best granita, a Sicilian dessert
Film buffs will recognize the setting from The Postman (1994), in which Italian actor Massimo Troisi plays a postman who delivers letters to a famous poet and thus learns to appreciate poetry. Thanks to electric bikes, it’s possible to conquer the islands’ steepest slopes without getting out of breath. This means you can see a lot in a short time and still have time for coffee breaks.
Tour leader Nicolas knows exactly where the best granita is served. At restaurant Da Alfredo in Santa Marina, after a refreshing dip in the sea, I sample the semi-frozen sweet drink that is inextricably linked to Sicily.Lipari: City walls and culture
After a short boat trip, Lipari, the largest island in the group, comes into view. As I doze in the sun, I hear someone shout “dolphins” and, just in time, I see a dolphin leap into the air. The ship has sails, but it’s almost always powered by its motor, so very quickly I can see Lipari’s towering city walls looming. Once ashore, I discover a rich past: Greeks, Romans, Arabs, and Normans have all left their mark here. The Museo Archeologico Eoliano (Eolian Archaeological Museum) tells the story of this melting pot.
The Aeolian Islands: A UNESCO World Heritage site
Through narrow streets lined with restaurants and shops, I walk up to the castle. At the top, a beautiful view of the harbor awaits, where a white church stands out starkly against the sapphire-blue water.
Back on my e-bike, I follow the road that climbs along a rocky coastline with tufts of moss and black-sand beaches covered in pebbles from the last eruption. Spiaggia Bianca is named after the white pumice (light, porous, volcanic rock) that was mined here until 2007. The end of mining was a condition for the Aeolian Islands’ UNESCO status. Tour leader Nicolas picks up a piece of pumice: “Use this in the shower; it’s a great exfoliant.”
Vulcano: Sulfur and lunar landscapes
After another beautiful boat trip, we reach the island of Vulcano, named after Vulcan, the Roman god of fire. Upon arrival in the harbor, I smell it immediately: the sulfurous fumes from the fumaroles (openings in the Earth’s crust) give off an odor of rotten eggs. Next to the Spiaggia delle Acque Calde beach, bubbles rise from the ground, naturally heating the water.
A steep path leads to the crater, yellowed by the sulfur, where plumes of smoke curl upward. Hold your nose for a moment, but then a spectacular view awaits.
The Story of the god Vulcan
One last time, we take to our e-bikes. I put mine on the highest power setting and watch the battery drain deceptively quickly. It’s a good thing the crew charges the e-bikes after each ride; all that climbing would be agonizing on a regular bike.
I tear through the almost-otherworldly landscape to the viewpoint on Capo Grillo. Nicolas tells captivating stories, including one about the Roman god Vulcan: “If his wife Venus is unfaithful to him, he gets so angry that you can hear the volcano roar.”
The rhythm of sailing and cycling
After days of sailing, breakfasting, dining, and sleeping on board, Sundial almost feels like home. On board, Vanessa serves smoked swordfish, shrimp, and, for dessert, cannoli -Sicilian cookies filled with ricotta. The boat rocks gently on the waves as the sun sets.
The daily routine – waking up on deck; cycling over the green hills; hiking through volcanic, lunar landscapes; swimming in the sea; and enjoying Sicilian meals together – is something I could easily maintain for weeks.
Video story
Want to see more of the Aeolian Islands? Watch Jessica’s full video here:
Inspired to start your own adventure?
What makes this trip so special is the combination of sailing, cycling, and hiking. From the boat, you’ll see the islands emerge in all their volcanic splendor – then explore them by e-bike and on foot, without getting out of breath. Weather permitting, you’ll visit a total of five islands: Vulcano (cycling and hiking), Stromboli (hiking), Panarea (hiking), Salina (cycling), and Lipari (cycling).
For those who want to experience the Aeolian Islands like the locals do – in harmony with nature – a boat tour with e-bikes on board is the ultimate way. Ready to plan your boating and biking vacation? Call us at (203) 841-1249 or email us at info@boatbiketours.com, and we’ll be happy to help.
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